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Winifred Mason Brass Copper Necklace

Winifred Mason Jewelry: Ageless Elegance and Artful Craftsmanship

Winifred Mason, a groundbreaking figure in the world of jewelry design, is often regarded as the first commercially successful African-American jeweler in the United States. Born in 1915 in Manhattan, she began her career in 1940 and soon gained recognition for her unique artistic vision and use of mixed metals, such as bronze, copper, and silver.

Winifred Mason Charm Bracelet
Winifred Mason Charm Bracelet. ca. 1950

Following her marriage to Haitian Jean E. Chenet in 1948 , Mason devoted a significant portion of her time to Haiti. Operating under her married name, Winifred Chenet, she specialized in the sale of “voodoo-inspired” jewelry in the country. Concurrently, she managed an establishment in New York dedicated to showcasing Haitian art. Tragically, in 1963, her husband was murdered in Haiti by the notorious Tonton Macoute.

Winifred Mason Brooch
Winifred Mason Modernist Brooch

Following the murder of her husband in 1963, she returned to the United States and opened a store in New York, selling Haitian art.

Winifred Mason Copper Bracelet

Each piece crafted by Mason was distinct and original, never repeating the same design twice, which earned her significant popularity and a loyal following. Her first piece of jewelry, a beautiful pendant made from bronze, copper, and silver, caught the attention of her friends and admirers, resulting in growing demand for her work.

The innovative talent of Winifred Mason led her to create jewelry for prestigious Fifth Avenue stores in New York, such as Lord & Taylor (I loved going to that department store when I was a kid!) and Bloomingdales. Her achievements as a black female entrepreneur and artist during a time when racial and gender barriers were particularly challenging, testify to her hustle, skill, and creativity. Despite the scarcity of celebrated Black jewelry designers in American history, Mason’s impact on the industry and influence on future generations cannot be understated.

Winifred Mason Bracelet
Winifred Mason Bracelet
Winifred Mason Cuff
Winifred Mason Cuff (Source: IG @auerbachmaffia)

The Legacy of Winifred Mason

Pioneering Modernist Jeweler

Today, her legacy lives on, and artists continue to draw inspiration from Mason’s work and her determination to challenge the traditional notions of both jewelry design and cultural boundaries. By exploring the life and art of Winifred Mason, we can appreciate the extraordinary achievements of this groundbreaking black American jewelry designer and further acknowledge her important contributions to the world of fine art and jewelry.

Winifred Mason Brass Copper Necklace
Winifred Mason Necklace

Her work was characterized by the integration of various materials, such as copper, brass, silver, and semi-precious stones, to create intricate, avant-garde designs. Her craftsmanship and creativity set her apart from her contemporaries, and she became a mentor to other artists, including renowned jewelry designer Art Smith

Art smith holding necklace
Art Smith
art smith galaxy necklace
Galaxy Necklace by Art Smith

Cultural Significance

Several other innovative metalsmiths worked alongside Winifred Mason during this magical time in NYC, including Paul Lobel, Sam Kramer, Arthur King, and the Rebajes brothers. This collective of artists contributed to a thriving creative community within Greenwich Village and the greater city, putting it on the map as a mecca for both innovative craftsmen and consumers alike.

Winifred Mason Brass Copper Cuff
Winifred Mason Brass & Copper Cuff Bracelet
Winifred Mason Voodoo Necklace
Winifred Mason Voodoo Necklace

Collecting Winifred Mason Jewelry

Identification and Authentication

Winifred Mason, a talented African American jewelry designer from the mid-20th century, created unique pieces that are now highly sought after by collectors. To identify original Winifred Mason jewelry, look for her signature elements, such as copper, brass, and silver used in combination with semi-precious stones. Additionally, some of her pieces may carry her signature: Chenet D’Haiti. See images below

winifred mason jewelry signature
Winifred Mason Jewelry Marking
Winifred Mason signature (2)
Winifred Mason Jewelry Marking

To authenticate a piece, collectors may consult with experts, visit forums dedicated to vintage jewelry, and check for documentation like original receipts or newspaper clippings that showcase her work. Check out examples of her work on the  cover of Ebony magazine in December 1946. I was astounded that this jewelry on this cover were made almost 80 years ago. She was so ahead of her time! Love it. 

Winifred Mason Ebony Magazine
I really REALLY want that ring!

Preservation and Care

Proper care and preservation are crucial for maintaining the value and beauty of Winifred Mason’s jewelry. Collectors should follow these guidelines:

  1. Clean the jewelry gently with a soft cloth, avoiding chemicals or abrasives.
  2. Store pieces individually to prevent scratches or tangling.
  3. Keep away from extreme temperatures, humidity, and sunlight to prevent tarnishing or damage.
  4. Periodically examine clasps, prongs, and other elements to ensure they remain in good condition.

Following these steps can ensure that Winifred Mason’s creations remain a cherished part of any collection for years to come.

Market Trends and Value

The market for vintage jewelry, including Winifred Mason’s work, has shown significant growth over the past few decades. As her reputation as a pioneering African American jewelry designer becomes more widely known, the value of her pieces is likely to increase. Believe me, I know. I sincerely wish I hadn’t slept on Ms. Mason’s jewelry! I missed out on these gorgeous cufflinks!

Winifred Mason Cufflinks

 However, it is important to keep in mind that market trends can fluctuate. To get a better understanding of the current market value of Winifred Mason’s jewelry, collectors can consult auction houses, online marketplaces, and appraisal services. Learning from the exhibitions that she was part of, and being aware of established collectors who appreciate her work, can also offer valuable insights into the market trends and value of her pieces.

References

“Winifred Mason.” Wikipedia, Wikimedia Foundation, 2022, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Winifred_Mason.

Grant, Sebastian. “Black Jewelers: A History Revealed.” Art Jewelry Forum, 14 Feb. 2022, https://artjewelryforum.org/articles/black-jewelers-a-history-revealed-rediscovery-article-black-jewelers-a-history-revealed-series-auth-sebastian-grant-auth-natl-usa-2-14-2022/.

“Celebrating the Magic of Winifred Mason.” IGI, https://igi.org/celebrating-the-magic-of-winifred-mason/

Herrera, Shayne J. “Winifred Mason.” Shayne J Herrera, https://www.shaynejherrera.com/gallery/winifredmason.

“Pioneering Black Jewelry Designers.” JCK, https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/pioneering-black-jewelry-designers/.

“Harlem and Haiti.” National Museum of African American History and Culture, https://nmaahc.si.edu/explore/stories/harlem-haiti.

Ebony Magazine, December 1946 issue cover.

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