From Copper to Classics: The Artisanal Saga of Rebajes Jewelry
Rebajes jewelry, synonymous with the creative flair intrinsic to Francisco Rebajes, occupies a unique place in the pantheon of American jewelry design. Born Francisco Torres in the Dominican Republic, the artist who would later become known as Frank Rebajes immigrated to the United States, where he eventually set up shop in New York.
His brand became renowned for its handcrafted pieces, often fashioned from copper and sterling silver, that encapsulated the vibrant spirit of the mid-20th century artisanal movement alongside other notable modernist jewelry makers like Winifred Mason, Paul Lobel, Sam Kramer, and Art Smith.
Rebajes’ innovative approach, characterized by bold, abstract forms, positioned his jewelry not merely as accessories, but as wearable art. His proficiency in working with metals, especially copper, allowed for the creation of distinctive pieces that were both modern and timeless. The demand for Rebajes jewelry saw his stores flourish during the 1940s and ’50s, with his creations being sold across the United States and even gaining international acclaim.
The legacy of Rebajes continues today as collectors and fashion enthusiasts seek out these vintage treasures. From cuff bracelets to necklaces and earrings, each Rebajes piece is a testament to the artistry and craftsmanship that marked the heyday of this brand’s influence on American jewelry design. The continued interest in Rebajes jewelry reflects not just a nostalgia for a bygone era but also an appreciation for the exceptional quality and style that the brand represented.
History and Influence of Rebajes Jewelry
Rebajes jewelry represents the artistic achievements of Francisco Rebajes, an immigrant who rose to prominence in the New York City jewelry scene. His work is notable for its connection to mid-century modern art and its commercial success on Fifth Avenue.
Origins and Francisco Torres
Francisco Torres, later known as Frank Rebajes, began his journey in the Dominican Republic before moving to the United States in the 1920s. Initially, Torres crafted designs from tin cans, creating a foundation for his unique artistic style that combined elements of his Dominican heritage with the burgeoning New York arts scene.
Expansion to New York and Fifth Avenue
His talent soon led to the establishment of a store in Greenwich Village, and eventually, a prestigious showroom on Fifth Avenue. This move not only marked the expansion of the Rebajes brand but also placed his jewelry within the heart of New York’s luxury marketplace, contributing to his reputation as a pioneering artist in mid-century modern jewelry design.
Otto R. Bade and the Transformation of Rebajes Jewelry
Otto R. Bade’s journey from a young man in Nebraska to a key figure in the world of modernist jewelry is a story of ambition, skill, and serendipity. Bade’s origin story is deeply connected to the success of Rebajes Jewelry, a brand that he would eventually take over and lead into a new era.
In the late 1930s, even as Rebajes Jewelry was enjoying significant success, there was a critical challenge that needed addressing: the need to mass-produce their unique jewelry designs. This challenge was the backdrop against which Otto R. Bade would emerge as a pivotal figure.
Bade’s life took a decisive turn in 1940 after a visit to his grandfather in New York. Realizing that the life of a farmer in Nebraska was not his calling, Bade returned to Manhattan in 1941 with a different future in mind. It was here that fate stepped in; he responded to a single employment advertisement, which happened to be for a position at Rebajes’ workshop.
During his interview, Francisco Rebajes, recognizing the need to scale up production, presented Bade with a challenge. He handed him the “Ubangi Face” brooch, a favorite piece, as a test of his skill and potential. This moment marked the beginning of Bade’s profound association with Rebajes Jewelry.
Under Rebajes’ tutelage, Bade honed his craft and played a critical role in solving the production challenges of the workshop. His ability to replicate and produce designs on a larger scale without losing the artistic integrity that Rebajes Jewelry was known for became a cornerstone of the company’s continued success.
Eventually, when Francisco Rebajes decided to retire in the late 1950s, Otto Bade was the natural successor to lead the company. With his deep understanding of the brand’s artistic vision and his own developed craftsmanship, Bade was able to continue and expand upon the legacy of Rebajes. He maintained the signature modernist style of the brand while also infusing it with his own creative insights.
It’s important to acknowledge that Otto R. Bade’s origin story is not just about a young man seeking a different life than that of farming; it’s about a pivotal moment in the history of Rebajes Jewelry. Bade’s skills and innovations were instrumental in the transition of the company from a workshop struggling with production issues to a renowned name in the modernist jewelry movement, a legacy he upheld and enriched throughout his time with the Rebajes outfit. Check out the video below to dig deeper into Bade’s story!
Collaborations with the Whitney Museum
The Rebajes brand gained further acclaim through collaborations with institutions like the Whitney Museum of American Art under the guidance of Juliana Force. This partnership solidified Rebajes’ standing in the art world and introduced his creations to a broader, more discerning audience, cementing his legacy in American art history.
Collecting and Purchasing Rebajes Jewelry
Collectors and enthusiasts seeking to acquire Rebajes jewelry will find a range of options from vintage treasures to more contemporary pieces. Understanding authentication, exploring global marketplaces like Etsy, and adhering to buyer tips are imperative.
Identifying Authentic Pieces
Authentic Rebajes jewelry often bears distinct markings that collectors should look for. One should examine pieces for signatures such as “Rebajes” stamped on the metal, which signify originality. Designer Otto Bade, who took over the Rebajes studio, also left a mark, “ORB“, that can be spotted on later productions.
Shopping on Etsy and Global Marketplace
Etsy provides a wealth of Rebajes jewelry, with a selection of products ranging from iconic copper bracelets to unique brooches. As a global marketplace, Etsy sellers typically offer detailed descriptions and images, and many include free shipping to appeal to a broad audience. When shopping, it’s critical to contact sellers for any clarifications on the listings.
Essential Tips for Buyers
Buyers should keep several key practices in mind:
- Check Seller Reputation: Look for sellers with high ratings and positive feedback on Etsy or any global marketplace.
- Inquire About the Condition: Request information about any wear and tear, as condition affects value.
By focusing on these specifics, individuals can make informed decisions when selecting and purchasing Rebajes jewelry.
References
Vanished New York City Art Deco – The Rebajes Jewelry Shop.
Vintage Francisco REBAJES Copper Leaf Panel Link Bracelet.
Vintage 1950s Signed REBAJES Brazilian Mask Copper Metalwork.
Bennett, D. (2004). American Jewelry Manufacturers. Schiffer Publishing Ltd.
Burkholz, R. (2014). Francisco Rebajes: Artistic Beauty in Jewelry Design. Antique Trader.
Rainwater, D. (1998). Copper Art Jewelry: A Different Lustre. Schiffer Publishing Ltd.
Rebajes, F. (1956). Rebajes: Modernist Jewelry & The Wearable Art Movement. Rebajes Jewelry Catalog.
Seitz, W. C. (1961). The Art of Francisco Rebajes. The Metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin, 19(7), 188-195.
