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Arthur King Jewelry

Arthur King Jewelry: Unveiling the Craftsmanship Behind the Brand

Arthur King is a notable name in the pantheon of American jewelers, recognized for artfully transforming natural gemstones into contemporary wearable art. I stumbled upon him while researching other modernist jewelry makers from the mid 20th century.

Arthur King Portrait
Arthur King. (I really want that belt!)

 His innovative approach to jewelry design, which often features baroque pearls, geodes, and raw semi-precious gemstones, established a distinctive modernist style that remains influential. King’s self-taught craftsmanship enabled him to work intuitively with materials, creating pieces where the organic beauty of gold and silver complements the unique character of each gemstone.

Geometric sculptural ring
Geometric sculptural gold and emerald ring by Arthur King (Source: IG @treasurefinejewelrymiami)

The talent of Arthur King is demonstrated in his ability to marry the irregular forms of natural gemstones with crafted precious metals in a seamless,  harmonious fashion. Throughout the mid-20th century, his jewelry became renowned for its unconventional aesthetic, which significantly diverged from the symmetry and polish that characterized much of the mainstream jewelry of the era. Each creation by King is a testament to his commitment to originality and excellence in design.

Silver cuff bracelet by Arthur King
Silver & caged smokey quartz wrist cuff by Arthur King

King’s jewelry, available on the market today, continues to captivate collectors and enthusiasts with its unique blend of artistic vision and the innate allure of pearls and gemstones set in finely sculpted gold and silver. The rarity and individuality of his pieces make them a valuable addition to collections, reflecting King’s standing as a true original in the landscape of American jewelry design.

Artistic Heritage and Craftsmanship

Arthur King’s jewelry stands out as profound works of art, defined by its innovative use of materials and bohemian techniques. His legacy is marked by bold freeform style and intricate craftsmanship that have cemented his place in the realms of fine jewelry and modern design.

emerald and gold ring by Arthur King
Chatham emerald, diamond, and gold ring by Arthur King (Source: IG @mahnazcollection)

Innovative Techniques

King was notably skilled in wax casting and lost-wax casting, a meticulous process that allows for the creation of unique and intricate designs. His flair for sculpting in wax translated seamlessly into one-of-a-kind silver and gold pieces. By specializing in these techniques, King became an invaluable contributor to the craft of jewelry making, crossing boundaries into the world of fine art.

In Greenwich Village and later London and New York City, King perpetuated the tradition of the goldsmith with modern twists. His works often featured unconventional silver settings and a freeform style, challenging the norms of jewelry design at the time.

Amethyst and silver cufflinks by Arthur King

Identifying Jewelry by Arthur King

Key indicators for identifying an original Arthur King piece include his signature stylized monogram, often interlocking initials “AK.” His work featured unique shapes like boomerangs, starbursts, and geometric links cast in precious metals with horn accents. King also stamped the marking “Arthur King Sterling” on his silver pieces. (See examples below)

Arthur King jewelry markings
Arthur King markings (gold)
Arthur King jewelry markings
Arthur King markings (silver)

Iconic Collections

Arthur King’s collections were not merely displays of luxury but museum-worthy exhibits. Pieces of his work have been showcased in notable institutions, such as the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, the Museum of Contemporary Crafts in New York, and the Cincinnati Art Museum. These collections highlighted his unique ability to marry organic forms with precious metals and gemstones, suitable for both commissioned works and everyday jewelry enthusiasts.

Black opal ring by Arthur King
Black opal, diamond and gold ring by Arthur King. (Source: IG @huntandgathernc)

Influential Collaborations

King wasn’t just a solitary artisan; his collaborations significantly influenced the world of fine jewelry. Working alongside other craftsmen, he carved a niche for himself, especially in New York’s artistically fertile ground of the mid-20th century. The NYC was rife with skilled modernist jewelers like Art Smith, Sam Kramer, Winifred Mason, and The Rebajes Brothers. 

Art smith holding necklace
Jewelry maker Art Smith
Sam Kramer Jeweler
Jewelry maker Sam Kramer. Slick! Suave!
Winifred Mason Brass Copper Necklace
Jewelry by Winifed Mason
Rebajes Jewelry Boutique
The tony Rebajes Brothers Jewelry boutique. Wow!

The Goldsmiths’ Hall (where he was invited to show his jewelry in 1961) also played a role in promoting his craft, giving him a platform that reached an international audience, thus expanding his influence and solidifying his importance in the history of jewelry design.

Gold cufflinks by Arthur Smith
Geometric modernist cufflinks by Arthur King

Cultural and Historical Significance

Arthur King’s jewelry bears a distinct mark on the history and culture of jewelry-making, standing as a symbol of the modernist movement’s intersection with wearable art.

International Presence

Arthur King Jewelry established a significant global footprint, transcending his Greenwich Village beginnings to reach the prestigious avenues of international fashion. Renowned outlets on Madison Avenue and luxury houses in Paris proudly displayed his creations.

malachite and sculpted gold box by Arthur Smith
Super rare malachite and sculpted gold box by Arthur Smith. (Source: IG @thecarolineervin)

His art pieces garnered admiration at iconic destinations such as Fortnum & Mason in London, and exhibitions like Simply Brilliant: Artist-Jewelers of the 1960s and 1970s attest to his enduring legacy.

Inspiration and Representation

King’s work was deeply inspired by the natural world and baroque pearls, which he incorporated into his modernist jewelry. His utilization of scrap metals transformed to objets d’art echoed the sculptural and abstract art movements of the time, drawing parallels to contemporaries like Alexander Calder, and Andrew Grima.

Cocktail Ring by Arthur King
Gold cocktail ring by Arthur King

 These pieces, often sold through elite channels like 1stdibs, reflected a blend of artistry and nature, offering the wearer a piece of sculptural history. King’s jewelry, through its representation of storied Bonham’s auction house and its presence in institutions like the Museum of Arts and Design, highlights its profound cultural resonance. I think his work is absolutely magical! 

References

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