Arthur Smith Jewelry: A True Modernist in Manhattan
I stumbled upon Art Smith by doing research on one of his former employers, the trailblazing Winifred Mason. I loved her design and was mesmerized by her work. I will admit, though, when I laid eyes upon the intrepid pieces by Art Smith I was blown away. I felt an immediate connection to his style. I felt that he created with a certain freedom and boldness that the most interesting artists seem to employ. Hopefully you will find this man’s jewelry and story of struggle and triumph as intriguing as I do.
Table of Contents
The Life of Arthur Smith
Career Overview
Arthur “Art” Smith (1917-1982) was a renowned Afro-Cuban jewelry designer who gained international recognition for his modernist designs during the mid-20th century. Born in Cuba, Smith was the son of Jamaican immigrants. He started his career by pursuing architecture, advertising, and sculpture at the prestigious Cooper Union, an institution that was more “welcoming” to minorities.
Smith later trained at New York University (NYU) and under the guidance of another notable jeweler, Winifred Mason. He worked in her shop for 4 years, at which point he came to the realization that he could be doing the same thing (making jewelry) on his own. Smith opened his first shop on Cornelia street, which was less than welcoming (broken windows abound), and later in Greenwich Village. His illustrious career took off in the 1940s, and throughout his life, Smith created unique “wearable sculptures” that adorned the bodies of modern dancers and famous clients such as Duke and Ruth Ellington.
Influence on Jewelry Design
Art Smith’s work was often inspired by surrealism, bio-morphism, and primitivism, which allowed him to craft distinctive and timeless pieces. His innovative designs garnered praise for their sculptural qualities and the way they showcased the human body.
Some of his most notable creations include:
Galaxy Necklace
Modern Cuff
Arthur Smith Jewelry Collections
Signature Styles
Arthur Smith’s jewelry collections are known for their innovative and distinctive designs, featuring a unique blend of surrealism, bio-morphism, and primitivism. His signature styles often showcase:
- Organic shapes inspired by nature
- Abstract forms with bold and sweeping lines
- Semi-precious stones that add depth and color
Some popular pieces from his collections include:
Paraspiral Necklace
Made in 1955, this hand hammered necklace featured a graduated form ending in a spiral.
Linked Oval Necklace
This was made in 1974 and features flattened oval rings that decrease in size from the center oval, which is set with a large purple-and-white semi-precious stone set in a silver collar.
Lava Bracelet
Craftsmanship and Technique
Art Smith was influenced by Surrealism, Primitivism, and the work of Alexander Calder, as well as by jazz, traditional tribal jewelry, and African sculpture.
Materials Used
Smith was known for his innovative use of materials in his mid-20th century jewelry designs. Primarily working with metal, Smith often combined copper and silver to create his signature modernist pieces. He was also known to incorporate semi-precious stones, such as agate, opal, and amethyst, into some of his designs. This fantastic piece below features citrine!
Notably, Smith’s pieces often featured different metal finishes, with some showcasing a matte appearance, while others displayed a textured, hammered effect. This variety in metal finishing techniques contributed to the uniqueness of his designs. This is evident in this bronze collar piece my Smith.
Crafting Process
The crafting process of Art Smith’s jewelry pieces involved a meticulous attention to detail and an innovative yet organic approach. Inspired by themes such as surrealism, biomorphism, and primitivism, Smith’s creations often echoed natural and abstract forms.
One of the common techniques used by Smith was hammer forging, in which the metal was meticulously shaped and formed utilizing a hammer and anvil. This method allowed him to create fluid designs that appeared both sculptural and functional.
In addition, Smith was known for his excellent craftsmanship in soldering, a technique that involves joining metal pieces using a filler material. This skill allowed him to create complex, yet delicate, structures for his jewelry designs.
His artistic talent and commitment to quality production has played a significant role in the lasting impact of his work. Today, Art Smith’s jewelry remains highly sought after and continues to inspire contemporary designers.
Acquiring Arthur Smith Jewelry
- Auctions and Estate Sales: One option is to look for Arthur Smith pieces at auctions and estate sales, where collectors or estate managers may be selling original works. Keep an eye on auction houses, both local and online, for opportunities to bid on his pieces.
- Gallery Exhibitions: Occasionally, galleries may showcase Arthur Smith’s work and offer it for sale. For instance, Art Smith’s work has been showcased in the past at museum exhibitions, such as the one at the Little Gallery of the Museum. Keep an eye on galleries’ future events to be informed about such opportunities.
- Online Marketplaces: Online platforms, such as Etsy or eBay, sometimes have Arthur Smith jewelry available for sale. Be cautious when purchasing from this type of venue, as it’s crucial to verify the authenticity of the pieces. For a safer option, consider purchasing from reputable online sellers, like the Art Smith Jewelry website, which carry a curated selection of his works.
- Vintage and Antique Shops: It’s not uncommon to find Arthur Smith’s jewelry in vintage or antique shops. These stores may have acquired his pieces from estate sales, private sellers, or through other means, making it possible for buyers to find authentic and unique items.
When acquiring Arthur Smith jewelry, it’s essential to be mindful of its authenticity, condition, rarity, and provenance. Take the time to research and understand the signature elements of his work, such as his use of silver, brass, and copper, as well as the stylistic influences he employed. By doing so, you will be better equipped to identify and appreciate the original creations of this vanguard. Look at as much of his previous pieces to get a vibe of what he does. I searched high and low for an authentic signature. Art Smith signed his name on the back of most pieces in cursive writing. This is what I found:
The Legacy of Arthur Smith
Smith’s Greenwich Village workshop was in operation from the mid-1940s until 1979. During this time, Smith created a diverse range of works, gaining the admiration of collectors and museums alike. Today, his pieces are highly sought after and can be found in the collections of prestigious institutions such as the Museum of Arts and Design in New York City.
Several other innovative metalsmiths worked alongside Arthur Smith, including Paul Lobel, Sam Kramer, Arthur King, and the Rebajes brothers. This collective of artists contributed to a thriving creative community within Greenwich Village and greater NYC, putting it on the map as a mecca for both craftsmen and consumers alike. Smith’s pioneering designs opened doors for collaboration and inspiration among these creators.
One of Smith’s most significant contributions to modernist jewelry was his ability to integrate form and function seamlessly. His wearable sculptures showcased a distinctive balance of innovation, beauty, and practicality. His jewelry not only added a striking visual accent but was also comfortable and easy to wear.
Today, Arthur Smith’s jewelry remains highly sought after by collectors, and his impact on the world of modernist jewelry is still felt and appreciated. His work has been showcased in exhibitions such as “From the Village to Vogue: The Modernist Jewelry of Art Smith” at the Brooklyn Museum (link below). This recognition cements Smith’s position as an iconic figure in the world of modernist jewelry, whose legacy continues to inspire the next generation of artists and designers.
Book on Art Smith Jewelry:
Russell, Charles L. (2015). Art as Adornment: The Life and Work of Arthur George Smith . New York: Charles L Russell.
References:
- https://carriehoffman.com/blogs/chj-inspo/people-we-love-art-smith-jewelry-designer ↩
- https://americanart.si.edu/artist/art-smith-6273 ↩
- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Art_Smith_(jeweler) ↩
- https://nmaahc.si.edu/explore/stories/art-smith-modern-cuff-ca-1948 ↩
- https://carriehoffman.com/blogs/chj-inspo/people-we-love-art-smith-jewelry-designer ↩
- https://objectsusa.r-and-company.com/features/the-life-and-work-of-art-smith ↩
- https://nmaahc.si.edu/explore/stories/art-smith-modern-cuff-ca-1948 ↩
- https://artsmithjewelry.com/asdirectory.html
