jose de rivera jewelry

The Jewelry of Jose de Rivera: Masterpieces of Modernist Metalwork

José de Rivera was a prominent American abstract sculptor renowned for his innovative approach to form and material. His contributions to art extended beyond larger installations and sculptures; he also channeled his talents into the intricate art of jewelry making. While more widely recognized for his public and monumental works, made predominantly from stainless steel, de Rivera’s jewelry embodies the same aesthetic principles and attention to detail that characterize his larger pieces.

Jose De Rivera portrait
Jose De Rivera at work in his studio

The intersection between de Rivera’s sculpture and jewelry is fascinating, as it displays his ability to work across different scales with a consistent stylistic language. His jewelry pieces frequently feature abstract, biomorphic forms that are reminiscent of his sculptural work. Not widely retailed, these jewelry items are rare and sought after by collectors who value the unique blend of wearable art and modernist design.

Jose De Rivera portrait
Brooch collection by Jose De Rivera

De Rivera’s approach to jewelry making was both an extension of his sculptural practice and a distinct art form in its own right. His works, whether standing large in a public space or adorning the body, share an exploration of form, volume, and the properties of his chosen materials. They showcase the versatility and vision of an artist who found expression on both monumental and personal scales, leaving a legacy that continues to influence contemporary sculpture and modernist jewelry.

Jose De Rivera sculpture
Sculpture by Jose De Rivera
Jose De Rivera sculpture
Steel sculpture by Jose De Rivera

Jose de Rivera's Early Life and Artistic Journey

José de Rivera was a distinguished figure in the American abstract sculpture scene, whose journey from a machinist background to a celebrated sculptor was marked by innovation and skill.

Early Life and Influences

José Ruiz de Rivera, born on September 18, 1904, in Louisiana, ventured into the realms of art after acquiring a wealth of knowledge in practical mechanics. His early years saw him growing up in New Orleans where he developed a foundational expertise in machining, blacksmithing, and tool and die making. This technical background later became instrumental in his artistry. During the late 1920s, when he moved to Chicago, de Rivera refined his drawing skills under the guidance of muralist John W. Norton and delved into the artistic community which stemmed his lifelong engagement with sculpture.

John W Norton mural
Controversial mural by De Rivera's mentor, John W. Norton
Jose De Rivera sculpture
Sculpture by Jose De Rivera

Development as an Abstract Sculptor

José de Rivera’s transition to a full-time artist came about as he worked for the Works Progress Administration (WPA) which was part of the New Deal agency, providing work for artists during the Great Depression in the United States. His service in the Army Air Corps during World War II brought him to New York where post-war, the flourishing art scene deeply influenced his sculptural direction. By 1947, de Rivera had his first solo exhibition in New York that formally established him as a skilled sculptor. His unique style involved creating fluid, dynamic forms, often incorporating motion into his pieces, reflecting an understanding that was likely inspired by contemporaries like Alexander Calder. De Rivera was part of a burgeoning community of modern jewelers and metalworkers including Frank Rebajes, Art Smith, and Ed Wiener, which expanded his influence and solidified his reputation as an innovative American artist.

Exploration and Evolution of Jewelry Design

Jose De Rivera was instrumental in pioneering the integration of modern sculptural techniques into jewelry design, creating pieces with a distinct sense of movement and fluidity. His work often featured the combination of polished surfaces and textured finishes.

Jose De Rivera brooch
Gorgeous biomorphic brooch by Jose De Rivera

Integration of Sculptural Techniques in Jewelry

Jose De Rivera brought the realm of sculpture into the intimate scale of jewelry. He was known for his modernist designs that often incorporated stainless steel, a material favored for its durability and sleek appearance. De Rivera utilized sculptural techniques, such as casting and hand-hammering, to create brooches and pins with a dynamic sense of form. These pieces exhibited a hammered finish on one side and a highly polished surface on the other, capturing light and shadow in a dance reflective of his interest in movement and continuity.

Jose De Rivera brooch
Brooch by Jose De Rivera
Jose De Rivera sculpture
Sculpture by Jose De Rivera. You can see the similarities.

Signature Elements and Motifs

De Rivera’s pieces were recognizable by their biomorphic shapes—designs inspired by forms found in nature.  Though not directly linked to Sam Kramer, another significant jewelry maker of the mid-20th century, De Rivera’s playful use of materials and forms shared the same innovative spirit that characterized the era’s avant-garde jewelry design. Comparisons have been made! 

Sam Kramer cocktail ring
Fabulous ring by De Rivera's peer, Sam Kramer

José de Rivera's Jewelry Collections

José de Rivera’s contribution to the artistry of jewelry is not only significant but also well-recognized in prestigious collections and through his signature pieces. His works are remarkable for their modernist design and the distinct markings they carry.

Prominent Collections and Exhibitions

 Pieces of José de Rivera’s jewelry have found their way into renowned collections and have been showcased at respected institutions. The Brooklyn Museum in New York and the Metropolitan Museum of Art have been known to exhibit de Rivera’s pieces, highlighting their importance in the American modernist jewelry movement. Notably, his creations featured at a MoMA exhibition called “Modern Handmade Jewelry” in the mid-20th century. This event brought more visibility to de Rivera’s avant-garde designs and marked him as an influential figure in the art and jewelry world.

Jose De Rivera brooch
Sleek sculptural brooch by Jose De Rivera

Signature Jewelry Pieces and Their Markings

The jewelry designed by José de Rivera is characterized by its abstract expressionist style, often created in stainless steel, a material he preferred due to its durability and sleek appearance. De Rivera’s signature on his jewelry, which was often signed and carried his copyright, became a distinguishing feature that ensured authenticity and increased value. As an example:

Brooches:

  • Materials: Stainless Steel
  • Markings: Signed “DE RIVERA”

Design: Stylized, abstract shapes, often in polished or hammered finishes.

Jose De Rivera jewelry marking
Jose De Rivera jewelry markings

His unique approach to jewelry design reflected the same creativity he applied to his sculptures, blurring the lines between artisanal craft and fine art. Despite not being as widely commercialized as other brands like Tiffany & Co, de Rivera’s jewelry resonates with collectors and museums, emphasizing his legacy in cities like Chicago and Louisiana, where his artistry continues to be celebrated.

Impact and Legacy in the Art and Jewelry World

José de Rivera’s work in jewelry design strongly echoes across both the art and jewelry worlds. His creations, deeply rooted in elegance and often viewed as having a romantic flair, have transcended time, influencing modern jewelers and artists alike. De Rivera’s pieces are characterized by their sweeping curves and polished surfaces, capturing light and shadow with a photographer’s acuity.

Museums such as the Smithsonian Institution and the Archives of American Art have taken note, incorporating de Rivera’s work into their esteemed collections. The presence of his work in these institutions solidifies his significance and offers a testament to the lasting beauty of his designs.

Jose De Rivera brooch
Futuristic brooch by Jose De Rivera

Exhibitions and publications continue to document his craftsmanship, allowing a broader audience to appreciate the subtle yet powerful statements his jewelry makes. De Rivera understood the interplay between art and adornment, creating jewelry that stands as miniature sculptures, wearable art that connects intimate human experience with larger artistic movements.

Through careful examination of de Rivera’s work, audiences gain insights into the progress of art as it interfaces with the more personal world of jewelry. His legacy lives on, not just in his pieces but in the ongoing conversation about the convergence of beauty, function, and artistic expression in jewelry design. His photographic approach to jewelry has set a precedent for artists striving to capture the essence of both mediums, elevating the craft to new heights of artistic integrity and public admiration.

Related Stories

From Sketches to Masterpieces: Famous Artists Who Began as Illustrators and Cartoonists

Before they became art world legends, Warhol, Guston, and others sharpened their skills as illustrators. See how their early work shaped iconic masterpieces!

Arne Jacobsen: The Modernist Who Made Mid-Century Cool

Arne Jacobsen’s designs blend sculptural elegance with everyday function. From the iconic Egg Chair to sleek modernist architecture, his work remains effortlessly timeless.

New Yorker Magazine Covers for Valentine’s Day: Art, Love, and Humor

The New Yorker Valentine’s Day covers capture the humor, charm, and chaos of love, turning the holiday into an artful celebration of all its quirks.

  • Home
  • Design
  • Pages
  • The Jewelry of Jose de Rivera: Masterpieces of Modernist Metalwork
Scroll to Top